Highly refined white sugar was the first thing I removed from the pantry when we began to convert to a Real Food diet. My cupboards now hold all manner of unrefined sugars: dark muscovado, coconut sugar, rapadura, raw sugar and golden caster sugar. I use unrefined sugars in all my baking, and even in ice cream and lime curd. If you look carefully though, you will find one small bag of “white death” (as it is lovingly known in our house) tucked away at the back of the storeroom. This small bag is used for one thing, and one thing only. Cordial.
My dad’s citrus trees are in full swing at the moment, so when he offered me some grapefruit I readily accepted. We love grapefruit juice, and fresh juice can’t be beaten. I imagined a small bag, maybe a dozen fruit if I was lucky. Apparently dad’s trees are heavily laden at the moment, because a very large tub of freshly picked fruit arrived on my doorstep. A bottle of juice and a batch of grapefruit curd barely made a dent in the tub, so I decided that cordial might be a good way to use up more of the fruit.
I have genuinely tried to make cordial with unrefined sugars but it just doesn’t taste that great. Unrefined sugars have deep caramel and molasses notes that are wonderful in baking and almost unpleasant in my favourite citrus cordials. The unrefined sugar turns the bright clear colours of the citrus juice an unappetising brown, and it appears that the cordial has gone bad when it is still perfectly drinkable.
It seems a double standard to use refined white sugar whilst extolling the virtues of wholefoods, but I look at this from an